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Developments:

Arriving in Banjul Airport in The Gambia, two things are immediately striking. The first is a large advertising hoarding on the side of the airport building proclaiming Gambia's role as host of the 2006 African Union summit. President Jammeh, a large, portly figure, sweating even in his propaganda photos, smiles down at new arrivals. The second is the empty four-lane highway covering the half-mile stretch from terminal to airport gate. The latter is perhaps the best road in the country.

The Gambia is one of the world's poorest countries, ranking 155th of 177 countries in the United Nations 2005 Human Developoment Index. Many families cannot afford to send their children to school, malaria claims thousands of lives each year, and unemployment is widespread.

Despite these problems, the President invested millions of dollars in the AU summit, including over $5m for new villas for visiting heads of state. He also flew in his friends, Presidents Chavez of Venezuela and Ahmadinejad of Iran. A supporter of nefarious former West African leaders Sani Abacha of Nigeria and Charles Taylor of Liberia, Jammeh is slowly sucking in power and wealth like a sponge. Political opponents are silenced, the press muzzled. Elections are won by comfortable margins, even as the price of rice and other foods rises beyond many Gambians' means.


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