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Developments:
Green tea, or attaya, is the beverage of choice in The Gambia. It is drunk in three rounds, each of which seems to take approximately 40 minutes to brew. Mohammed, a young roadside peanut seller who also makes a mean attaya, tells us that the lengthy brewing process allows time for drinkers and brewer to chat and share news. He puts a packet of Chinese "Gunpowder" green tea into a tiny enamel teapot, adds water and an enormous quantity of sugar, and boils it up over a charcoal burner. He then pours the resulting brew into a small glass, and from there into another, similar glass. Then back into the original glass. He does this at least thirty times (I lose count), unhurriedly, until there is a sufficiently thick foam resting on the tea. The first round is the strongest - the tea is dark and rich, much stronger than the green tea found in Chinese restaurants in the West. The second and third rounds are milder, though still powerful enough, and much sweeter.
After serving his guests, Mohammed takes a glass into his compound to give to his father. He returns and settles down on his stool to make the second round. Not a drink to ask for if you're in a hurry.
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