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Midday prayers on Fridays in Serrekunda, Gambia's main city, are an impressive sight. As the ezan is called from a nearby mosque, everybody stops what he is doing (women mysteriously disappear from view) and positions himself to face East. One side of the main street, Kairaba Avenue, is packed tightly with men standing in a line several hundred metres long. A petrol station forecourt is similarly crowded, with a dozen rows of worshippers huddled between the gas pumps. The opposite side of the street is empty, and the area's normally bustling commerce ceases while the prayers and prostrations proceed.

Nine of every ten Gambians are Muslims. Most are devout and regular worshippers, but they wear their religion lightly and relations with Christians, who make up most of the rest of the population, are healthy. As a young Christian hotel worker tells us, Muslim children are as keen on Christmas presents - usually in the form of money - as their Christian counterparts. Her co-religionists, meanwhile, take an enthusiastic part in Muslim festivals.


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